ever notice how small waves can still feel heavy?
Surfing
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found out the other day that wave period matters more than size when it comes to power. like, a 3ft wave at 15 seconds can hit way harder than a sloppy 5ft at 7 seconds.
makes sense now why some days feel punchy even when it looks mellow from the beach. surf science is wild

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that is some great info thank you for the post